Keenly green kohlrabi comes to farmers’ markets in St. Louis mid-May and stays through early summer. Three bulbs lustrous and smooth, the supple stems pulled tight into an ersatz ponytail of leaves held tight in a jaunty red rubberband, the spring kohlrabi from Scharf’s Farm nearly leapt into my bag at Soulard Market in St. Louis.
I’d never cooked or eaten kohlrabi until I wrote about it for Sauce Magazine in 2009, so it’s relatively new in my diet. Raw, kohlrabi add crunch and an unexpected quiet spice note to salads. Kohlrabi mixed with the new super-crisp apples in equal parts sharpens the sweetness of a classic Waldorf salad. Cooked, it behaves like a cousin to potatoes. It creams, cooks in soups and mashes with butter. Very versatile.
This year, a recipe from Bert Greene’s Greene on Greens cookbook for a warm kohlrabi and smoked sausage salad caught my attention. I’d been looking for an excuse to buy the artisan kielbasa from The Farmer’s Larder, a new local chaucuterie established by the Matoushek mother-and-son tag team in the summer of 2010. Grass fed beef, pasture raised pork, peppercorns and spices, hickory smoked, fully cooked and in a natural casing, too. What’s not to like?

Of course, I tweaked the recipe, but Bert led me in the right direction. The dish, similar to a vinegar-y German potato salad, crosses into the unexpected, courtesy of kohlrabi and the too-good-to-miss kielbasa from the Matoushek’s. For more on The Farmer’s Larder, check out Andrew Veety’s blog and this blog post at The Riverfront Times by Holly Fann.
Warm Kohlrabi, Kielbasa and Potato Salad
Yield: 6 servings
1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1 large Vidalia onion, cut in half and sliced in thin slivers
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
3 kohlrabi bulbs, 3-inches or less in diameter, a little over a pound
6 red new potatoes, 2 to 3-inches in diameter
3 tablespoons dry white wine or vermouth
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 teaspoons smooth Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1 pound kielbasa, sliced on the diagonal
Fresh coarsely ground black pepper
2 tablespoons fresh chives, snipped in half-inch pieces
- Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil and one tablespoon butter in an 8-inch skilled over medium heat until warm. Add the sliced onions and stir to coat. Sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt and stir. Allow the onions to cook over low heart, stirring occasionally, until the onions are brown and carmelized.
- Trim kohlrabi of stems and leaves. Cut off the woody bottom and slice the top. Rest the bulb on the cutting board and peel with a sharp knife, paring off the green or purple outer skin from the top to halfway down the bulb. Turn the bulb over, and pare the remaining skin. Slice the bulbs in half lengthwise, then cut into half-moon slices about ¼-inch thick.
- Place the kohlrabi in a 3-quart saucepan, cover with cold water to 2 inches over the slices, add the salt and cook, uncovered for 30 to 40 minutes.
- Wash and dice red potatoes in ¾-inch cubes. Leave skin on. Add the diced red potatoes to the pot with the kohlrabi 15 minutes after the start of cooking. Cook until just tender. Drain kohlrabi and potatoes and set aside.
- Whisk together the wine, vinegar, Dijon mustard and sea salt. Add 1/3 cup of olive oil, drizzling the oil in a steady stream into the wine mixture, whisking constantly.
- Pour the mixed dressing over warm kohlrabi and potatoes and stir gently with a wooden spoon to coat.
- Heat 1 tablespoon unsalted butter in a skillet. Add the kielbasa slices and brown on both sides.
- Plate individual salads with the potato/kohlrabi mix on the bottom. Add carmelized onions to one side of the plate. Coarsely grind pepper over the top. Add the chopped chives. Top with sliced kielbasa and serve warm.
Note: This salad tastes great the next day, cold or warm.